An Orthodox man comes out of "Laundry Mania" with a white shirt draped in plastic, freshly-laundered and ready for tomorrow. A thin, young Hassidic man in a brown, furred hat like a lamp shade has his crying daughter firmly clasped in his arms. He's marching ahead, wheeling a suitcase. It's the eve of Sabbath, much work still remains to be done before the sun goes down, to prepare for when work must cease. There's no mitigating circumstances when it comes to the Law. Auburn-wigged young wife walks behind in black, registering the argument in her demeanour, registering the husband's stress in the downward-looking gaze and gait of her wife's body. Seriousness struggles with another kind of vigil: Friday night, and cheesy, sweet Latin American music pipes out of the shops, floating on the air. Clutches of Uzbek men in plastic leather jackets and 70s 'taches, smoking rancid fags, eye the young women, who shun them with a self-turning shoulder. Some of the men feel like mafia, probably because they're always around, doing nothing specific. They've claimed this pavement; you have to walk around them. Same with the Poles. (Hipsters, beware. Locals Rule here enough to resist gentrification. Ah... but gentrification is like Manifest Destiny. An inevitability in the U.S., and its empire abroad.)
A Mayan boy on the pavement in three-quarter-length khaki shorts is blowing bubbles upward into the Indian Summer evening sky, and I cross into Latin America. Passing the barber shop, Abel the barber from Mexico gets up from his ruminations to greet me: perfect grey flat top like a 50 year old punk, he wears a bone necklace, and has features like Quetzalcoatl. His wife is Irish. "David? si. Yo estaba pensando. el nombre de mi suegro es Mc...Dermott: y es de una ciudad que se llama Leitrim. Si, Leitrim." ("David? Yes. I was thinking. My father-in-law's name is Mc...Dermott, and he's from a city called Leitrim.") I go up the rickety wooden steps to the subway, laughing to myself and, in fact, some tears of connection squeeze their way out with the laughter: about how only New York, perhaps, can connect the watery fields of Leitrim (otters and loneliness), to Mexico via Brooklyn.
Abel's daughter cut my hair the other day: "Blade 1? Easy haircut." And yet, she dedicated a plethora of blades, scissors and talc, a wealth of pleasant attention to my pate, my beard, my neck. She taped old style, elasticated tissue around my throat; a sharp, pleasant, wet straight razor gliding down the back of my neck. Her hand adjusted my head with a firm, woman's touch. She was wearing a water-based cologne that opened a wound of nostalgia for Spain. In the background, heroes and heroines swooned on soap operas piped in via satellite from "el D.F." (Say it Day F-Aay, bud.) I get a chill when Mexicans say, "Soy del D.F.", in response to my inevitable, "¿de dónde eres?" / "where are you from?" The sound values of those sibilants contain something of the day-to-day heroism and chaotic aliveness of Latin America: it's Buenos Aires, Montevideo, Cuzco, it's Asunción; it's Sao Paolo, and of course it's the Distrito Federal. New York may be the shit, but the true motherlode, the big hearted Mother City, is "el D.F.", homes. Mexico City, baby.